Wave Theories and Their Applicability Essay Example | Topics and Well Written Essays – 1000 words

Wave Theories and Their Applicability – Essay Example

This disturbance carries the energy and travels through the water from one location to another without or temporarily transporting the water on which the wind acts. It is like transfer of power or energy from one thing to another. The wind exerts the force on water to form the wave to carry its energy. Then where the wind energy comes from It’s again recursive. It’s not the topic of discussion in this coursework.
Very high waves with long overhanging crests. The resulting foam is in great patches and is blown in dense white streaks along the direction of the wind. On the whole, the surface of the sea takes a white appearance. The rolling of the sea becomes heavy and shock like. Visibility is affected.
Exceptionally high waves (small and medium sized ships might for a long time be lost to view behind the waves). The sea is completely covered with white patches of foam lying along the direction of the wind. Visibility is affected.
After many years of experience and deep observations with water waves lead to the development of different wave theories. And Stokes Wave Theory is the one among them. In this theory Stokes uses the common approach of generation of waves due to the wind. The three major parameters involved in the theory and they are the waves, which are subjected to certain boundary conditions, the equations of motion and the fluid (ideal or perfect or frictionless) on which the wind acts to form the wave. …
The sea is completely covered with white patches of foam lying along the direction of the wind. Visibility is affected.
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20
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Hurricane
Air filled with foam and spray. Sea completely white with driving spray. Visibility is very seriously affected.
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WAVE THEORIES
After many years of experience and deep observations with water waves lead to the development of different wave theories. And Stokes Wave Theory is the one among them. In this theory Stokes uses the common approach of generation of waves due to the wind. The three major parameters involved in the theory and they are the waves, which are subjected to certain boundary conditions, the equations of motion and the fluid (ideal or perfect or frictionless) on which the wind acts to form the wave. Nowadays there are several variations of Stokes Theory developed using the computer implementations and are called the Extension of the Stokes theory to higher orders. For example, Stokes 2nd order, 3rd order and so on. Dean’s (1965) stream function theory is the theory, which uses the stream function in place of the velocity potential to develop it. Dean (1974) did a limited comparison of measured horizontal particle velocity in a wave tank with the tenth-order stream function theory and several other theories. Again the variations of the stream function theory developed using different numerical methods by Dalrymple 1974, Chaplin 1980, Reinecker and Fenton 1981.
Stokes finite amplitude wave theory is a non-linear shallow-water wave theory and is applicable when the depth to wavelength ratio d/L is greater than about 1/8 or kd > 0.78 or Ur < 79. As waves move into shallow water, portions of the wave travel faster because of amplitude dispersion

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